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The Wild Pizzas of Southern Italy Have to Be Seen to Be Believed

A restaurant critic and two chefs go on a pie-in-the-sky adventure to find exactly how far you can stretch the idea of pizza.
Pizzas at Di Gesù, a popular bakery in Altamura, Puglia.

Pizzas at Di Gesù, a popular bakery in Altamura, Puglia.

Photographer: Carol Sachs for Bloomberg Businessweek

When do dough, tomato sauce, and mozzarella stop being mere ingredients and become pizza?

It’s a philosophical question that has divided chefs and diners for decades. For some, only pies in the Neapolitan and Roman styles are acceptable—Sicilian, at a stretch. Others extend the goal posts as far as Chicago deep dish.