Here Come the Wheat Whiskies

All whiskey is made from grain, but in the U.S., we tend to reserve our wheat supply for bread and breakfast cereal, not spirits. Which is a shame, because when used in a whiskey mash bill, wheat adds a unique, fruity sweetness and a subtle spicy flavor profile. It’s what Bill Samuels added to the Maker’s Mark recipe back in the 1950s to distinguish it from other bourbons, and it was such a hit that it hasn’t changed at all since. Some say the wheat ingredient is what draws fans to Pappy Van Winkle bourbons from Sazerac Co.’s Buffalo Trace, those highly allocated, semiannual releases at 12-, 15- and 23-year age statements that draw an annual frenzy—and attention from bandits. And it’s what disappointed drinkers look for in other, less elusive bourbon bottlings if they can’t find it.

American whiskey sales in 2018 rose 6.6%, or $224 million, to $3.6 billion worldwide, according to the Distilled Spirits Council. However, unlike “wheated” whiskeys such as Pappy or Maker’s, wheat whiskey has accounted for only a tiny fraction of that figure. That could be changing. Straight wheat whiskey contains 51% or more of wheat in its mash bill, as 51%-plus corn is to Kentucky bourbon and rye is to, well, rye.