Business

Canada’s Syrup Cartel Challenged by Vermont’s ‘Maple on Steroids’

Maple Guild has 460,000 maple taps and wants to become the largest syrup supplier in the U.S.

Mike Argyelan, Maple Guild’s chief executive officer.

Photographer: Oliver Parini
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If you think you enjoyed maple syrup with your breakfast this morning, you may well be wrong. America’s favorite pancake topper—Aunt Jemima, a PepsiCo brand that last year reached 132 million consumers—is, in fact, made of corn syrup. It contains zero maple tree sap. The same is true of the two other top-selling syrup brands, Mrs. Butterworth’s and Log Cabin.

If, however, you poured “pure maple syrup” this morning, then there’s a good chance you were using the product of a cartel. More than 70% of all maple syrup sold worldwide, and most of the maple syrup consumed in the U.S., comes from a single Canadian conglomerate, the Federation of Quebec Maple Syrup Producers. The OPEC-like entity at last count was holding 7.5 million gallons in barrels, waiting for prices—currently at about $33 per gallon—to rise.