Photographer: Evan Sung/Bloomberg
Food

The 10 New York Pizzas You Must Eat Before They Disappear

If you're a lover of pizza in New York, chances are you know something about the classics, the champs. We're talking about Joe's and Johns, about Patsy's and Lucali, about Totonno's. We're talking about all those sweet proportions of tomato and mozzarella to blistered crust. But there's always room for new pies, isn't there? Here are 10 to eat right now. Right now, seriously, because many of them will be gone as summer produce ends its run.

  1. 'Nduja and Radish at GG's
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    'Nduja and Radish at GG's

    The thick grandma pie is a thing of beauty, but not a lot of pizzerias are doing the style justice. At GG's, in the East Village, Bobby Hellen has gotten it just right with a hefty, bouncy, deeply flavorful bread that proofs for more than 24 hours to develop its flavor and gets baked the first time with a wash of tomato water to keep it moist. For the new Cosa Nostra pie, Hellen swipes the bread with 'nduja, a smoky, spicy, fresh Calabrian-style salami spread that he makes himself. Sliced radishes and a drizzle of lemony pesto and basil oil over the top add crunch and brightness. For those who like things even sharper, Hellen serves the pizza with limes on the side, and you’re encouraged to squeeze them over the whole thing. GG's is at 511 East 5th Street (East Village); (212) 687-3641 or ggsnyc.com

    Photographer: Evan Sung/Bloomberg
  2. Squash Blossom and Anchovy at Marta
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    Squash Blossom and Anchovy at Marta

    Few pizzas in New York compare with the crackling thin-crusted beauties served in Rome. Marta, in the Martha Washington Hotel, is a star of the genre, but the best part about Nick Anderer's menu may be its constant flux of specials as seasonal pies shuffle in and out. Don't miss the late summer classic of squash blossoms. The fats from the only two other ingredients—salty little Sicilian anchovies and mozzarella—seem to fuse together in the oven, turning mellow and sweet. Marta is at 29 East 29th Street (Flatiron); (212) 651-3800 or martamanhattan.com

    Photographer: Evan Sung/Bloomberg
  3. Zucchini and Ricotta at Vic's
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    Zucchini and Ricotta at Vic's

    More squash. Yes, of course, the summery zucchini coming out of Hillary Sterling's kitchen is sweet and striped with black grill marks, under a cover of pleasingly hot chilies and fresh basil, full of flavor and color. The crust is a thick puff of crackle and char, suitably light on toppings. Vic’s is at 31 Great Jones Street (East Village); (212) 253-5700 or vicsnewyork.com

    Photographer: Evan Sung/Bloomberg
  4. Country Ham and Peaches at Bruno Pizza
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    Country Ham and Peaches at Bruno Pizza

    Remember when Dave Gulino and Justin Slojkowski used to cook complex tasting menus together behind the tiny counter at Box Kite? Bruno is the duo's less precious comeback, a thoroughly unfancy pizzeria (that’s quietly grinding more than 60 pounds of flour each day from wheat berries grown upstate). Don't miss the white pie draped with Marlow & Daughters’ ham and grilled peaches. Sweet, tangy, salty, with a dough that's blackened and crisp at the edges but maintains a significant amount of tenderness inside, it’s delicious. Bruno Pizza is at 204 East 13th Street (East Village);brunopizzanyc.com

    Photographer: Evan Sung/Bloomberg
  5. Heirloom Squash at Upland
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    Heirloom Squash at Upland

    The thing about this fantastic pie is that it's essentially a shaggy, Cal-Ital salad on a pizza crust: strips of zucchini and petals of zucchini flowers draped over a crisp base with big fresh basil leaves. They make a pretty stellar burger here, too. Upland is at 345 Park Avenue South (Flatiron); (212) 686-1006 or uplandnyc.com

    Photographer: Evan Sung/Bloomberg
  6. Porchetta-Style Rabbit at Ogliastro
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    Porchetta-Style Rabbit at Ogliastro

    Porchetta, the stuffed, spit-roasted pork seasoned with garlic and rosemary, is a traditional sandwich filling in central Italy, where it's often sliced to order and stuffed into all manner of breads. For one of Ogliastro's more complex pies, the same technique is applied to rabbit meat for a similar, though leaner effect. Ogliastro is at 784 Washington Avenue, Brooklyn (Prospect Heights); (718) 789-3700 or ogliastropizza.com

    Photographer: Evan Sung/Bloomberg
  7. The Burger Pizza at Emily
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    The Burger Pizza at Emily

    A pizza inspired by ... a burger? Few things could sound more ridiculous, or more thrilling, to fans of Emily’s Emmy burger (also one of New York's best burgers), who will appreciate the garlicky, buttery, gochujang-dosed mayonnaise in swirls here over crumbled up, dry-aged burger patty with cornichons galore. Matt Hyland started out making this pie for a staff meal, putting leftover burger ingredients to good use, but knew it wasn’t just a one off when people went “bananas” over it. Now officially called “The Goods,” you won’t see the pizza on the menu. Inquire about it. Emily is at 919 Fulton Street, Brooklyn (Clinton Hill); (347) 844-9588 or pizzalovesemily.com

    Photographer: Evan Sung/Bloomberg
  8. Prosciutto and Arugula at Lea
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    Prosciutto and Arugula at Lea

    One of the great, underrated pizza toppings is that combination of arugula and prosciutto. It's a pizza to order when you're ordering nothing else, a pizza and salad in one. And at Lea, in Brooklyn, it's layered over a not-too-sweet tomato sauce after the bubbled, blistered pie comes out of the oven and given a generous grating of parmesan. Lea is at 1022 Cortelyou Road, Brooklyn (Ditmas Park); (718) 928-7100 or leabrooklyn.com

    Photographer: Evan Sung/Bloomberg
  9. Potato and Ham at Via Della Pace Pizza
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    Potato and Ham at Via Della Pace Pizza

    Newly opened in the East Village, Via Della Pace Pizza (not to be confused with its sister restaurant, Via Della Pace, which doesn’t serve pizza) turns out nicely burnished, crisp-edged pies from the wood-fired oven in the back of a cozy dining room. The pizzas are loaded with toppings, and centers can be goopy, especially if you're impatient. Try the cheesy Gio made with rosemary-seasoned potatoes and ham. Via Della Pace Pizza is at 130 St. Marks Place (East Village); (212) 466-4686 or viadellapacepizza.com

    Photographer: Evan Sung/Bloomberg
  10. Fried Pie at Sro2
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    Fried Pie at Sro2

    If you just pretend that Sro2 isn't marketing itself as a "pizza speakeasy," then you can really enjoy the Montanara fried pie. Because what's not to enjoy about a delicious, puffy saucer of fried dough slathered with tomato sauce and cheese? Former Forcella pizzaiolo Giulio Adriani opened this tiny parlor (with an entrance inside Gia) in January and has since done away with the set menu so you can order the pizzas à la carte (the menu includes plenty that aren’t fried). Sro2 is at 334 Bowery (East Village); sropizza.com

    Photographer: Evan Sung/Bloomberg
  11. Bonus Slice!
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    Bonus Slice!

    No, it's not a pizza, but this feels like a good time to tell you about the tlayuda at Cosme. A version of the Oaxacan snack, built quickly and creatively at food stalls in Mexico using a crisp base of corn tortilla and a variety of toppings, it has recently been added to the menu. Daniela Sotto-Innes tops hers with see-through slices of tomato, jalapeños, crunchy pork skin, and fresh herbs. Now you know. Cosme is at 35 East 21st Street (Flatiron); (212) 913-9659 or cosmenyc.com

    Photographer: Evan Sung/Bloomberg