Chinese Moguls Are Learning How to Make Bordeaux the Hard Way
Jack Ma, Peter Kwok, Vicky Wei, and other Chinese business leaders are buying up Bordeaux chateaux left and right. But how is the wine they’re producing?
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When Hong Kong businessman Peter Kwok bought picturesque Chateau Haut-Brisson in Saint-Émilion in 1997, all he wanted was a vacation spot where his three children could learn to speak French.
“I knew nothing about making wine, but the chateau came with vines,” he says. “Fairly quickly I learned that quality is all about the soil—and Haut-Brisson’s wasn’t the best.”