The Way That France Makes Wine Is About to Change Forever

  • Reseachers hunting for substitute to secure $4.2 billion sales
  • Grape varieties from Portugal, Spain, Italy among 52 studied

vineyard

Photographer: Andrey Rudakov/Bloomberg

This summer was a scorcher in France, the second-hottest on record. For Bordeaux wine growers, those searing temperatures were the latest reminder that global warming is threatening to upend their world.

In a vineyard on the outskirts of the world’s wine capital, Agnes Destrac, a researcher with France’s National Institute for Agricultural Research, points to shriveled merlot grapes, left to linger on the vine well past harvest time to simulate the effects of rising temperatures.