Pursuits

Polpo Founder Set to Take a Chance With Meatballs

Low-cost Covent Garden operation aims to bring street food out of the truck and into the takeaway.

Polpo's classic beef & pork meatballs

Photographer: Paul Winch-Furness
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Meatballs are making a bid for freedom.

Russell Norman, the restaurateur who shook up London dining when he opened New York-style no-reservations restaurant Polpo in 2009, is opening his 10th venue, and this time it's a meatball shop.