Markets Magazine

Cocktail Bars Becoming Chemistry Labs Serve Carbonated Bourbon

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When chef Michael White opens The Butterfly in New York in mid-June, the cocktail bar will pay homage to White’s native Wisconsin with a brandy old-fashioned, a favorite libation in the Badger State.

Instead of muddling an orange with bitters, sugar and a cherry, however, Eben Freeman, head of bar operations for White’s Altamarea Group, will put all of the ingredients into a chamber vacuum sealer, a cumbersome device that recalls the hyperbaric chamber used to explode a man’s head in the 1989 James Bond film “Licence to Kill.”