Gaonnuri Sells $59 Soup, Rubbery Calamari: Ryan Sutton

The cheapest Champagne at Gaonnuri is $160 the bottle. That’s a pricier starting point than at Masa or Per Se, where the food is outstanding, in contrast to “the world’s highest authentic Korean restaurant,” as its website boasts.

The site mentions Andy Sung, the chief executive officer, but not a chef, as far as I could tell -- which makes sense at one of New York’s weirdest and most expensive places to eat Korean.