Wines to Go With That Smoky Roast Pork in Backyard: John Mariani

Americans may still eat more beef than pork -- about 63 pounds per capita each year versus 48 -- but the current foodie fascination in the U.S. with all things porcine has crowned the pig king.

Whether it’s roast Italian maiale or a Vietnamese banh mi sandwich stuffed with slices of ham, pork hasn’t had better press since Charles Lamb wrote “A Dissertation Upon Roast Pig” back in 1823, in which he nailed the appeal of the savory porker as a kind of “animal manna.”