, Columnist
Why Are China's Fish Disappearing?
With markets suddenly bare, signs point to a well-known culprit.
Too many fish farms in the sea.
Photographer: China Photos/GettyThis article is for subscribers only.
It sounds like something out of a dystopian novel: The fresh fish in many of Beijing's biggest supermarkets simply disappeared last week, as if summoned to another realm. Social media buzzed with alarm and paranoia. The Beijing News placed a photo of an empty aquarium and an underemployed fishmonger on its front page.
The truth turned out to be something earthier and more familiar. According to state media, someone had tipped off the supermarkets about an impending health inspection. Rather than risk a problem, the stores -- including Wal-Mart and Carrefour outlets -- unloaded their fish. So far, at least, nobody seems to know where they went.