TSMC’s new factory in Kumamoto, shown under construction in 2023.

TSMC’s new factory in Kumamoto, shown under construction in 2023.

Photographer: Toru Hanai/Bloomberg
Gearoid Reidy, Columnist

Chip Cities Rise in Japan’s Fields of Dreams

The scale of Tokyo’s ambition creates the risk of spectacular failure, but so too does succumbing to decline in a sector the nation once dominated.

Rice paddies that lay fallow for decades in some of Japan’s most far-flung regions are now its hottest properties. As prices surge, these areas are discovering the truth to the old adage: If you build it, they will come1.

In Chitose, a city of 100,000 in the northernmost main island of Hokkaido, billboards seek recruits for the Self-Defense Forces, which saw a 50% shortfall last year. When I arrived on a fully booked plane from Tokyo packed with salarymen in cheap suits and expensive watches, it was easy to see where the competition was coming from: a half-dozen towering cranes jutting into the sky, a jarring contrast against the surrounding countryside. Thousands of construction workers are piecing together at breathtaking speed Japan’s most astonishing industrial gamble, a $33 billion bet that the country can retake the top of the semiconductor industry.