Andrea Felsted, Columnist

Demna Takes a Gucci-Loafered Step in the Right Direction

The designer’s first collection was promising but he must build on this potential

September 26, 2025 at 3:00 AM UTC

Andrea Felsted is a Bloomberg Opinion columnist covering consumer goods and the retail industry. Previously, she was a reporter for the Financial Times.

Spike Jonze, Halina Reijn, Edward Norton at the Gucci fashion showin Kilan.
Photographer: WWD/WWD

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In one of the pivotal moments from the short film revealing Demna Gvasalia’s first collection for Gucci, Edward Norton asks Demi Moore what she would do if she were in a room with tiger? He urges Moore, the matriarch of a fictional family, to surrender, and let the tiger devour her.

This could be a metaphor for the Italian fashion house itself, which is threatened by a raft of fierce rivals, shifting tastes and pressure on the middle-class customers who catapulted the brand to spectacular success almost a decade ago.