Burgers Are the Restaurant World’s Safe Haven

With apologies to John Milton, a hamburger is often the final infirmity of a noble restaurant. When times get tough, even the best chefs will succumb to the popular appeal and simple economics of a ground beef patty slid between well-buttered buns. Cheap chopped meat can conceal a lot of shortcomings and do wonders for the bottom line.

Nowadays, the financial incentives are more compelling for high-end establishments than burger joints. Inflation has pushed up the cost of beef — as much as 20% over the last 12 months, according to UK’s Office for National Statistics — so fancier spots can sell a pricey burger that’s still a bargain for their clientele. Depending on how you weight your cost-benefit analysis, you might opt for, say, a Gordon Ramsay burger rather than fast food in a box on a plastic tray. Currently, the two-for-one Whopper deal at Burger King in the UK will set you back about £12 ($16.20). That’s with a coupon. Without a promo discount, you may have to lay out almost £8 for just one. Some estimates have the Whopper increasing by a whopping 45% since 2020. In comparison, you can get a posh burger and brag about the famous culinary reputation attached to it for around £18. (Unless you want it with tender wagyu beef, which will cost you extra).