Raj Tawney, Guest Columnist

America’s Place in India’s Butter Chicken Fight

Two families fighting for recognition as the rightful creator of the popular dish is a reminder that it helped bridge cultural gaps in the US.

March 19, 2024 at 12:30 PM UTC

By Raj Tawney

Raj Tawney, an essayist and journalist who writes about family, food and culture, is the author of "Colorful Palate: A Flavorful Journey Through a Mixed American Experience" and "All Mixed Up."

Butter chicken served at Moti Mahal restaurant in New Delhi. — Butter chicken served at Moti Mahal restaurant in New Delhi.
Photographer: Arun Sankar/AFP

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For as far back as I can remember, chicken makhani — or butter chicken as it’s more commonly known — has been a premiere dish for Indian cuisine in the United States. Oftentimes, it’s the only item that non-Desis can mention by name, and their love for the rich curry runs deep.

It’s likely a significant reason why several analyses of Google searches have shown Indian food to be among the Top 5 most sought-after cuisines across the US.