Travel
The Best Way to See Africa's Great Migration, on a Safari Without the Crowds
Usawa Camp in the Serengeti takes the mobile lodge concept—in which tents get packed up and moved to new locations daily—from bare-bones to ultra-luxe.
We were in hot pursuit. Dust rose up behind our Land Cruiser in a massive cloud as our guide Chrisple Sikawa manhandled the steering wheel like a ship captain charting dangerous waters.
We had just seen thousands of wildebeests crowding the edge of a small cliff like a great swarm of bees. Below them: the mighty, crocodile-filled Mara River. Would they cross? Sikawa suspected they might. But this was not the best place to see it.