A Restaurant That’s Barely Raised Prices Since 1973
Japan’s Saizeriya chain hardly ever charges customers more, but inflation is making that policy harder to maintain.
A Saizeriya restaurant near Tokyo.
Photographer: Noriko Hayashi/BloombergAt the Saizeriya restaurant in Tokyo’s quiet Chofu neighborhood, a pizza margherita or a generous serving of spaghetti with meat sauce will set you back just ¥400 ($2.50). A shrimp cocktail starter, with more than a dozen pieces, costs ¥280. A glass of wine to wash it down runs ¥100—far cheaper than a can of beer from the convenience store around the corner. And these items aren’t offered at any kind of special discount. Prices on most of Saizeriya’s dishes—Italian-inspired but adapted to Japanese tastes—have increased only once since 1973, and that’s true at every one of the chain’s 1,000-odd locations in Japan, from sleepy suburbs to Tokyo’s pricey Ginza district, where Michelin-starred restaurants can run ¥100,000 per person.
The brand’s affordability has transformed what was once a casual hangout for students into a favored dining destination for adults, attracting more than 200 million customers last fiscal year. At busy Tokyo locations, it’s common to see dozens of people waiting outside at peak times. And Saizeriya is growing fast abroad, with about 600 outlets in China, Singapore and Vietnam and expansion to Indonesia in the works.