Uncle Quek Elevates Singapore's Hawker Classics for Hong Kong Diners
Barry Quek’s new restaurant faithfully recreates Singaporean classics, but the few experimental touches speak to an exciting, Whey-like energy in the kitchen.
Photographer: Nicholas Wong/Uncle Quek
As Singaporean expats here can attest, life in Hong Kong is a cycle of hope and disappointment when it comes to seeking out the flavors of our homeland. So when I heard that chef Barry Quek of Whey fame had opened a new, casual eatery where hawker classics like bak chor mee and hae mee would be offered, I made a reservation at Uncle Quek faster than one can say: “Singaporean bak kut teh is better than Malaysian bak kut teh.”
The bad news first: Uncle Quek’s bak kut teh, the pork rib soup that’s beloved in the region, is closer to the Malaysian style. That is, the soup is more herbal rather the peppery — a choice the chef told us was made for Hong Kongers’ sensitive palates. Fortunately, everything else is fantastic, with a lineup that nails the original flavors of traditional dishes while elevating them beyond street food with richer and higher-quality ingredients.