Inside London’s Top New Restaurant Hangout: The Buzzy One Club Row

It’s no easy achievement for a restaurant to grab attention when its neighbors are some of the best dining rooms in town. But the brand-new One Club Row—in close proximity to Lyle’s, Brat and Rochelle Canteen in Shoreditch—has landed in the white-hot core of London’s dining scene, with a room full of martinis, steaks and, most important, buzz.

One Club Row’s name is also its address: It’s tucked behind a wooden door under a little blue awning on the graffiti-plastered alleyway, just around the corner from the Shoreditch House. The only other clue you’ve arrived is a small sign by the entrance that glows yellow when walk-in seats are available. Up a flight of stairs, the 55-seat dining room is minimally fitted out with hardwood floors, a handful of bar seats and bentwood chairs pulled up to white-cloth-topped tables. Anyone familiar with the convivial hum of the Italian-American The Dover or a Jeremy King restaurant at full tilt will recognize the energy here.