Hong Kong Classic Tsui Wah Makes Glitzy Return to Central

It’s not the Tsui Wah of old, but residents in Hong Kong have gotten used to change.

Tsui Wah reboots in Central.

Bloomberg

For more than 20 years, the massive Tsui Wah branch on Wellington Street was a late night favorite of Hong Kongers. Open 24 hours a day, the cha chaan teng served up local classics like soup noodles, fried rice and egg sandwiches, washed down with tumblers of iced lemon tea — perfect fodder to soak up the alcohol drunk in nearby Lan Kwai Fong. At 2 a.m., a lively cross section of Hong Kong could be found there, talking over each other in the brash, clattering atmosphere under bright lights.

The restaurant shut down in 2020, its business hurt by protests and pandemic restrictions, the closure one of many marking the end of a louche era for the city’s nightlife.