Against the Odds, London Pubs Have Become the City’s Top Tables
Great, and varied, food and drink offerings make business viable in a way that traditional pubs are not.
The spruced-up Audley Public House has a destination menu and a ceiling from artist Phyllida Barlow.
Photographer: Simon Brown/The Audley Public HouseUK pubs are in a well-documented crisis, threatened by the high cost of everything from staffing and rent to utilities and beer to proposed legislation banning smoking in pub gardens. In 2023, 769 pubs went bankrupt, according to accounting firm Price Bailey LLP; now, the company’s most recent data says 11% of UK pubs are at risk of closing.
But a clutch of London operators are not only bucking the trend—they’ve also created buzzy, thriving destinations. By setting up shop in wealthy neighborhoods and offering high-end dining options, while preserving the uniquely homey appeal of a traditional pub, they’re drawing in crowds, especially young, affluent diners and drinkers.