I Dined at the Red-Hot Gucci Osteria on Rodeo Drive. It Wasn’t What I Expected

The typical Los Angeles cliches were nowhere to be found.

Inside the lobby at Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura, Gucci’s culinary outpost in Beverly Hills, Calif.

Photographer: Gabriele Stabile

It doesn’t take long to lose all objectivity at Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura.

Set in a rooftop atrium atop the brand’s flagship store on Rodeo Drive in Los Angeles, Gucci’s Michelin-starred ode to Italy’s Lombard cuisine enchants at every turn. On a recent Thursday evening, a maître d’ in tattoos and Gucci ready-to-wear meets my companions and me at the discrete entrance next to the store. She shows us into a foyer lined in vibrant floral wallpaper and whisks us via elevator to the gently illuminated lobby above. It feels like entering that moment in The Wizard of Oz when Dorothy moves from the bleak, colorless tone of her life in Kansas into the technicolor world of Oz.