Dessau doesn’t feel like the former mouth of a creative volcano. To enter this pleasant, if somewhat austere, eastern German city by train is to discover somewhere so trim and self-effacing that it seems implausible as the former location of the world-straddling, epoch-shaping Bauhaus, which celebrates its centenary this year.
Having transferred there from Weimar in 1925, the art and design school’s seven-year-stay managed to place Dessau at the heart of the Modernist movement, leaving behind it a scattering of truly ground-breaking buildings when it transferred to Berlin in 1932. Now, the city gives an impression of elegantly managed decline, with calm green streets threaded with gardens only lightly scattered with either cars or people.