Beware of Fancy Turkey Imitators This Holiday Season

Heritage turkeys, known for their robust flavor, small breasts and prices that can exceed $10 per pound, have been steadily gaining in popularity. They’ve even landed on the National Restaurant Association’s Top 20 Food Trends for the year. But Thanksgiving hosts looking to wow their guests with an unusual, flavorful bird may need to remain alert. Imitators are also increasingly popular with grocery chains. The real thing, experts say, is worth the additional legwork to find.

Heritage varieties have a more natural build than commercial turkeys, with more dark meat. These birds can run, fly and even reproduce naturally, allowing them to live more comfortable lives than their top-heavy commercial cousins. The additional time and labor required to raise such birds is reflected in the price. Heritage turkeys from White Oak Pastures in Bluffton, Georgia, sell for as much as $125 each online. “The fact that they’re able to run around in the pasture, they have more muscle, which also creates a stronger and more pronounced flavor” said James Beard Award-winning cookbook author Virginia Willis, who has been buying White Oak’s birds for several years.