Food
How Halloumi Devoured a Nation
Britain has become the world’s largest importer of a once-obscure cheese from Cyprus, but its popularity is surging elsewhere too.
Yiannos Pittas remembers the days decades ago when his Cypriot dairy airlifted halloumi cheese to expat diplomats in London. These days it’s flying off the shelves from Sydney to Stockholm.
But no country has embraced the rubbery cheese like the U.K., where exponential growth in demand has made halloumi the second-largest Cypriot export.