Luxury Travel

Portugal’s Best Chefs Are Finally Cooking in Portugal

The culinary vanguard is shifting to the Iberian peninsula’s long-overlooked western side.

Cave 23 in Lisbon.

Photographer: Arlindo Camacho

For years, Portugal’s most talented chefs were willing to cook anywhere but Portugal.

“I left in 2007, because there was a very limited number of fine dining restaurants here,” says Manel Lino, a Portuguese chef who spent years sharpening his skills on the other side of the Iberian peninsula. “Spain represented the vanguard of fine cuisine, and I wanted to be there.”