Dessert Discrimination Must Be Stopped

Restaurants are under financial pressure to cut the dessert menu, but one chef makes a case for celebrating those that get the sweet stuff right.
Photographer: Evan Ortiz/Bloomberg

Apart from the occasional Top 10 list, desserts don’t get much coverage in food media these days. But recently, New York Times restaurant critic Pete Wells wrote an article bemoaning the ubiquity of one specific dessert: the ice cream sundae.

Wells’s article struck a chord among chefs, critics, and diners alike. I interpreted it as being less about sundaes and more about calling out restaurants that serve unthoughtful, redundant desserts.