Good Luck Finding a Truly Organic Egg
Federal rules a decade in the making are supported by both industry and consumers. The Trump administration froze them, anyway.
Illustration: Michael Deforge
This article is for subscribers only.
Most Americans these days want their eggs to come from happy chickens—documentaries revealing horrific conditions inside the machinery of industrial farming long ago penetrated the public consciousness. But figuring out which chickens are treated most humanely has always been a challenge, especially since big agriculture realized how using a few magic words can mean piles of money.
What makes cage-free different from organic? What makes organic different from grass-fed? Free range different from pasture-raised? No one really knows for sure, and that’s the problem.