Hip Coffee at $4 a Cup Revives African Industry Left Behind

  • Africa became a niche producer as Vietnam, Brazil expanded
  • Urbanization, staple crops a threat to African arabica output
Photographer: Marlene Awaad/Bloomberg
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Julien Ochala can’t live without his morning cup of Joe.

But not just any coffee will do. For the past five years, the 37-year-old physiology lecturer at King’s College London has visited the same store every week to grab a pack of his beloved Kenyan brew. And he’s not put off by the cost: at 37 pounds a kilogram ($22 a pound), it’s more than double a similar supermarket product.