Here’s a Vegetarian Feast That’s Truly Satisfying

John Fraser’s always had a thing for vegetables. So in addition to all the stuff you might expect at a posh, Michelin-starred hotspot on the Upper West Side, the chef assembled a vegetarian tasting menu at Dovetail, and drew chic vegans once a week, when he observed meatless Mondays. At Narcissa, just as everyone’s patience for roast beets was beginning to wane, Fraser brought us back by spinning the gnarliest-looking roots he could find in the rotisserie for many hours, until they were unbelievably sweet and tender inside.

It’s no surprise that at his new restaurant, Nix, he’s cooking vegetables every night of the week. And while opening a vegetarian restaurant makes a clear political statement about food values, Nix isn’t the kind of place that will deliver a spiel about chasing the vague, feel-good benefits of clean living, or insist that you're saving the planet one spoonful of coconut oil at a time. The staff is not interested in patting you on the back for choosing to eat one way over another. Your reward for going to Nix, if you’re looking for one, is simple: pleasure.