When Dessert's So Good, You Order Two

Originally, in an effort to turn tables efficiently, there wasn't going to be any dessert at Pasquale Jones, the new restaurant in Soho from the team behind Charlie Bird. Thank goodness there is one, packing as much joy as a well-edited puppy gif.

Like so many of the savory dishes from chef Ryan Hardy, it's delicious and scruffy. On the bottom: roasted rhubarb, coming undone in soft, sour threads. On top: pistachios and the mascarpone ice cream that L'Arte del Gelato delivers daily. A glug of fruity olive oil gives everything a throat-tickling sheen. In a few seconds, in a few spoonfuls, it’s gone. And just like this pair of golden retrievers, you may want to enjoy it on repeat. Twice, I’ve put in a second order for the compact thrill, and twice my table has discussed, potentially, going in on a third. It’s that good.