Meet Kenta Goto, the Quiet Mastermind Behind New York’s Best New Bar

Plus, a recipe for his best cocktail, the Yuzu-Calpico Fizz
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The okonomiyaki is carefully striped with Kewpie mayonnaise, as if it were some kind of delicate confection rather than a fat, formidable pancake of cabbage and yam. Cherry blossoms bob in the martinis.

Kenta Goto’s newly opened Japanese-American bar, Bar Goto, is part izakaya, part luxe cocktail den, and a proper gem—a tiny room in New York’s Lower East Side with golden walls and a tightly edited list of about eight cocktails.