Noma Beats Can Roca to Regain Title of World’s Best RestaurantRichard Vines
Noma was named the world’s best restaurant, toppling last year’s victor El Celler de Can Roca and regaining the title it had won three times.
Chef Rene Redzepi and his colleagues from the Copenhagen establishment, known for foraged ingredients and its new Nordic cuisine, were awarded the prize by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants academy, which includes chefs and food writers. Can Roca in Girona, Spain, dropped to second in the rankings announced at a ceremony in London late yesterday.
The winners are based on the votes of 26 regional panels, each consisting of 36 food writers, chefs, restaurateurs and gourmets. (I pick the members of the U.K. and Ireland panel, which I chair.)
Osteria Francescana, in Modena, Italy, retained third place, followed by Eleven Madison Park, in New York, which moved up from fifth and was again voted the best in the U.S.
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal in London, rose to fifth place from seventh. Mugaritz in San Sebastian, Spain fell to sixth from fourth, followed by D.O.M. in Sao Paulo, Arzak in San Sebastian, Alinea in Chicago and at 10th place the Ledbury in London.
The Fat Duck, a previous winner, slumped to 47th from 33rd. Central, in Lima, rose to 15th place from 50th, climbing the rankings faster than any other establishment.
The awards have turned into the biggest annual gathering of chefs from around the world and are now accompanied by other events in London. This year, those included a lunch at Lima -- the London restaurant owned by Central’s Virgilio Martinez -- which was attended by Peruvian chef Gaston Acurio and by Massimo Bottura of Osteria Francescana.
Noma’s Redzepi was among guests at a party at Fera, in Claridge’s, on April 27.
Other accolades included Lifetime Achievement for Fergus Henderson of St. John in London; and Best Female Chef, which went to Helena Rizzo of Mani in Sao Paulo.
El Bulli won in 2002, the first year of the awards, and triumphed four more times (2006-2009) before chef Ferran Adria decided to close it. Other winners include the French Laundry (2003, 2004), the Fat Duck (2005) and Noma (2010-12).
The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2014 (last year’s rank in brackets):
50. Waku Ghin, Singapore (-) 49. Coi, San Francisco (-) 48. The Test Kitchen, Cape Town (-) 47. The Fat Duck, Bray, UK (33) 46. Le Calandre, Rubano, Italy (27) 45. Hof van Cleve, Kruishoutem, Belgium (25) 44. The French Laundry, Yountville, California (47) 43. Schloss Schauenstein, Furstenau, Switzerland (42) 42. Geranium, Copenhagen (45) 41. Quique Dacosta, Denia, Spain (26) 40. Daniel, New York (29) 39. Piazza Duomo, Alba, Italy (41) 38. L’Astrance, Paris (23) 37. Restaurant Andre, Singapore (38) 36. Mani, Sao Paulo (46) 35. Martin Berasategui, San Sebastian, Spain (-) 34. Asador Etxebarri, Atxondo, Spain (44) 33. Nihonryori RyuGin, Tokyo (22) 32. Attica, Melbourne (21) 31. L’Atelier Saint-Germain de Joel Robuchon, Paris (24) 30. Per Se, New York (11) 29. De Librije, Zwolle, Netherlands (-) 28. Aqua, Wolfsburg, Germany (30) 27. Le Chateaubriand, Paris (18) 26. Azurmendi, Larrabetzu, Spain (-) 25. L’Arpege, Paris (16) 24. Amber, Hong Kong (36) 23. Restaurant Frantzen, Stockholm (12) 22. Vila Joya, Albufeira, Portugal (37) 21. Le Bernardin, New York (19) 20. Pujol, Mexico City (17) 19. Faeviken, Jarpen, Sweden (34) 18. Astrid Y Gaston, Lima (14) 17. Gaggan, Bangkok (-) 16. Steirereck, Vienna (9) 15. Central, Lima (50) 14. Narisawa, Tokyo (20) 13. Nahm, Bangkok (32) 12. Vendome, Bergisch Gladbach, Germany (10) 11. Mirazur, Menton, France (28) 10. The Ledbury, London (13) 9. Alinea, Chicago (15) 8. Arzak, San Sebastian, Spain (8) 7. D.O.M., Sao Paulo, Brazil (6) 6. Mugaritz, San Sebastian, Spain (4) 5. Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, London (7) 4. Eleven Madison Park, New York (5) 3. Osteria Francescana, Modena, Italy (3) 2. El Celler de Can Roca, Girona, Spain (1) 1. Noma (2)
(Richard Vines is the chief food critic for Bloomberg. He is U.K. and Ireland chairman of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards. Opinions expressed are his own. Follow him on Twitter @richardvines)