Book Review: Anything That Moves by Dana Goodyear

The arrival of extreme cuisine
Photo illustration by Alis Atwell; Source: Alamy(5); Getty Images(3)

The new American cuisine is angry. Sometimes it even fights back. Take the live octopus served at a barbecue restaurant in Los Angeles, as described in Dana Goodyear’s Anything That Moves. The animal’s tentacles keep struggling even after they’ve been severed from its head. They can lodge in one’s throat, sometimes with fatal results. And those are just the dishes. The diners themselves are perpetually dissatisfied, oddly aggressive connoisseurs—you like pig feet? I’ll take dog!—turning the necessary act of caloric intake into an extreme sport.

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