Michelin Promotes London Restaurants as Blumenthal GainsRichard Vines
Michelin upgraded two restaurants to two-star status in the 2014 Britain and Ireland dining guide: Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and the Greenhouse, both in London.
There are 15 new one-star establishments, including Ametsa, Angler, Bo London, Brasserie Chavot, HKK, Lima, Outlaw’s at the Capital, Social Eating House and Story, all in London. L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon loses its second star.
“London, in particular, has never offered so much choice,” Rebecca Burr, the guide’s editor, said today in an e-mailed release. “With cuisines and culinary influences from all parts of the globe, it’s no surprise that the capital is one of the most exciting cities in the world for food.”
Michelin stars are valued highly by chefs and the likely awards are discussed in kitchens across the U.K. before publication. Speculation this year centered on hopes for more three-star restaurants. There are only four in the U.K.
Three stars mean exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey; two are for excellent cooking, worth a detour; one denotes a very good restaurant in its category.
Other one-star winners include the Samling, Ambleside; Adam’s, Birmingham; Wilks, Bristol; Ormer by Shaun Rankin, St. Helier; Campagne, Kilkenny; Lady Helen, Thomastown.
In London, new winners of a Bib Gourmand for value dining include A Wong, Del Mercato, Green Man & French Horn, Gail’s Kitchen, Grain Store, Honey & Co and Polpo Smithfield.
The U.K. now has a total of 167 stars. Four restaurants hold three, 21 hold two and 142 have been awarded one. The British guide is the first of the current series. Currently, the totals are: France, 596; Japan 595; Italy 307, Germany 255.
Of three-star establishments, there are 28 in Japan, 27 in France, 10 in the U.S. and Germany, seven in Spain & Portugal and in Italy, and five in Hong Kong and Macau.
Joel Robuchon is the chef with most stars. He has 21, even after dropping one today. Fellow Frenchman Alain Ducasse is second, with 18. Gordon Ramsay has 10, Pierre Gagnaire has eight and Thomas Keller seven. (Michelin doesn’t credit Gagnaire with the two held by Sketch, in London, where he devises the menu.)
Michelin & Cie, Europe’s largest tiremaker, produced its first guide in 1900. It was free of charge until 1920 and was intended for chauffeurs. The volume contained practical information, including street maps and tips on repairing tires. The company is based in Clermont-Ferrand, France.
The “Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2014” will be available in bookshops from Oct. 4, priced at 15.99 pounds ($25.71). “Michelin Guide London 2014” will be 11.99 pounds.
Three Stars: Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Fat Duck, Bray Gordon Ramsay, London, Waterside Inn, Bray Two Stars: Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles, Auchterarder Le Champignon Sauvage, Cheltenham Dining Room, Whatley Manor, Malmesbury Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, London L’Enclume, Cartmel Le Gavroche, London Gidleigh Park, Chagford The Greenhouse, London Hand & Flowers, Marlow Helene Darroze, London Hibiscus, London Ledbury, London Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, Great Milton Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley, London Midsummer House, Cambridge Michael Wignall at the Latymer, Bagshot Patrick Guilbaud, Dublin Restaurant Nathan Outlaw, Rock Restaurant Sat Bains, Nottingham Sketch, London The Square, London One star (in London) Alyn Williams at the Westbury Amaya Ametsa With Arzak Instruction Angler Apsleys Arbutus L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon L’Autre Pied Benares Bo London Brasserie Chavot Chapter One Chez Bruce Club Gascon Dabbous Galvin La Chapelle Galvin at Windows Glasshouse Hakkasan Hanway Place Hakkasan Mayfair Harwood Arms Hedone HKK Kai Kitchen W8 Launceston Place Lima Locanda Locatelli Maze Medlar Murano Nobu Nobu Berkeley Street One Leicester Street Outlaw’s at the Capital Petrus Pied a Terre Pollen Street Social Quilon Rasoi River Cafe St. John Seven Park Place Social Eating House Story Tamarind Texture Tom Aikens Trishna La Trompette Umu Viajante Wild Honey Yauatcha
(Richard Vines is the chief food critic for Muse, the arts and leisure section of Bloomberg News. He is U.K. and Ireland chairman of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards. Opinions expressed are his own.)
Muse highlights include Scott Reyburn on the art market and Jason Harper on cars.