Pursuits

Crenn’s Brilliant Squab Triumphs in S.F.: Ryan Sutton

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Around 2 1/2 hours into dinner at Atelier Crenn in San Francisco, I was presented a bowl filled with sticks, leaves and stones.

“Let me show you what’s edible,” the captain deadpanned. He’d already counseled me on eating a rhubarb-filled cocoa-butter nugget that bore an uncanny resemblance to a rock.