Pursuits

Esca’s $26 Linguine With Clams is New York’s Best: Review

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Esca’s easy: Go for the linguine with clams. The $26 dish isn’t just great, it is as iconic as Peter Luger’s steak.

The clams are absurdly briny and that’s precisely the way it should be (waiters make this explicitly clear upon ordering). The salt hits your tongue first, followed by chili pepper the way lightning follows thunder. The pasta is firm, no overcooking here.