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Battersby Serves Mushy $27 Cod, Sublime Kohlrabi: Review

When a restaurant serves gravy-drenched mashed potatoes as a main course, you wouldn’t expect to pair them with a $16 glass of cabernet franc, any more than you’d expect Iranian caviar on your pancakes at IHOP.

And yet that’s what you get at Brooklyn’s Battersby, where a large plate of spuds (“pommes puree,” per the menu) will set you back $20.