Can India's 'City of Architects' Green the Building Industry?

AUROVILLE, India – On a Saturday afternoon, I meet someone around my age who ticks off his professional designations: sound engineer, artist, architect. In this unusual town in southern India, another new acquaintance jokes, five out of four residents are architects.

It's an exaggeration but not by much. I've heard various estimates of the number living here: 20 or 25; around 40; upwards of 100. Those may not include the numerous fresh graduates that come to study. Even if the lowest guess is accurate, it would mean 1 in 100 here are architects. In India, the profession represents, by one estimate, 1 in 2,000.

They are drawn by the city's unique heritage of innovation. Chugging along in motorcycles on Auroville's narrow roads is a mix of original French and Tamil dwellers along with arrivals from 45 different countries. Many have, over its forty years, lent their own national style to the homes, guesthouses and collective spaces here. Most of the structures are stunningly unique and elegant.

"It’s some sort of expectation that brings all these young architects here,” says Ajit Koujalgi, a resident since 1971, and, naturally, an architect. What they expect is a chance to experiment with forms, materials and aesthetics often unavailable throughout the rest of the country.

They aren't alone. Many of Auroville's residents eschew money and devote themselves to the arts or research in fields like alternative energy. While it takes its name and principles from the yogic philosophy of Sri Aurobindo, an early Indian politician and guru, Auroville is less devoted to cloistered spiritual pursuit than communal living. It pitches itself as a nation-less, experimental ‘universal town.’ As one resident explains, "We’re a town, not an ashram."

Birthed in 1968, the town was planned to hold 50,000 residents. Now, it has just a bit over 2,000. While Indian cities are bursting with newcomers, on net last year, I am told, Auroville lost three residents. Various explanations float around, but the simplest may be that its unconventional living situation—residents cannot own properties outright, and the stipends doled out are relatively meager—is not for everyone.

Those that do live here, with their town plan fanning out like a spinning galaxy, are still receptive to new designs.