Pursuits

Hirst Cow Watches as Emin Eats at Mark Hix’s Tramshed

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The Tramshed formula is simple: Chicken or steak is the choice in this new London restaurant.

In case you forget, the room is dominated by a huge Damien Hirst vitrine of a cow with a chicken on its back. It’s called “Cock and Bull” and was created for the space. Don’t ask what it’s worth. If you need another visual clue, a second Hirst -- “Beef and Chicken” -- hangs on the wall.