Pursuits

Bouley’s Brushstroke Dishes $135 Toro, Boring Rice: Ryan Sutton

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Manhattan now has an antidote to the enervating, if beautiful, austerity of kaiseki service that’s been proliferating at high-end Japanese restaurants around town.

At Brushstroke, the Kyoto-inspired cuisine may be plated with no more elan than a bowl of spaghetti. Thank David Bouley, the owner and resident chef Isao Yamada.