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The John Dory Returns With Porky Mussels, $4 Rolls: Ryan Sutton

New York’s seafood temples understand everyone doesn’t eat fish, which explains the roast duck at Le Bernardin or the dry-aged sirloin at Marea.

And then there’s The John Dory Oyster Bar. It serves just a single meat dish, a roast pork sandwich slathered in tuna sauce.