Pursuits
Marathon Lobster Roll Hunt Has Three N.Y. Winners: Ryan Sutton
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New York’s best lobster rolls cost half as much as New York’s best-known lobster rolls. How do I know? I ate 16 of them.
Fish-shack fare in the city is mostly an exercise in inertia; not much changes and normally intelligent customers settle for subpar fare. How else explain the popularity of that $30 mayonnaise-laden roll in the West Village and too-thick, fatty New England clam chowder on a 100-degree evening? Or why so few restaurants offer the Manhattan version, which has tomato tang and acid to cut through the humidity? What’s next, rooting for the Red Sox?