The Last of the Cold Warriors Are Oiling Their Weapons in Colombia

In the jungles of western Colombia, between the Andes and the Pacific Ocean, a small rebel army is holding out against the government, drug traffickers and history.

The Cold War ended a quarter of a century ago, and the biggest guerrilla army in the Americas, the FARC, finally handed in its weapons this year. Yet the FARC’s smaller rival, the Marxist-Leninist National Liberation Army, or ELN, is still on a war footing.