The World’s Best Fondues—and Queso, Too
26 of the most delicious spots to get your melted cheese fix, from Mexico City to Singapore and, of course, Switzerland.
At a time when small plates rule the table, fondue stands proudly as the ultimate large-format sharing dish, the European alternative to a steaming hot pot in Asia.
Fondue’s long, cheesy strands reach back to Homer’s The Iliad, when the fromage of choice was made from goat milk. The dish, at its most basic just cheese and wine, gained international prominence in Switzerland in the 1930s when the Swiss Cheese Union promoted it from obscurity to push a glut of Gruyère and Emmenthal. The country continues to take fondue seriously, with more than one word to describe its various components. The delectable, crispy crust at the bottom of the pot is la religieuse (or “the nun”) for reasons that aren’t entirely clear. There are also unofficial rules of engagement like a firm no double-dipping policy and “penalties” that might include buying a round of drinks if you lose your bread to the goo.
Switzerland doesn’t have a monopoly on warming pots of melted cheese, however. Mexico has its queso fundido, Singaporeans spike theirs with chiles, and in Korea you’ll find melted cheese sandwiching crispy, spicy fried chicken. Following is a tour of the finest fondues around the globe—including chocolate for dessert, and one raclette, in case you want to switch it up.
Take out your long-handled forks—and get ready to dip.
UNITED STATES
Blue Ribbon Brasserie, New York
Soho’s quintessential late-night spot offers up a gooey mix featuring the usual suspects Gruyère and Emmenthal served with apple wedges, bread cubes, bacon, and crispy potato skins. “We have been serving the fondue since Blue Ribbon opened in 1992. It was one of our favorite foods to eat as kids and just had to be on our menu,” says co-owner and chef Bruce Bromberg. 97 Sullivan St., New York
La Bonne Soupe, New York
Tucked away in midtown Manhattan, with the feel of a Parisian bistro, the restaurant has been specializing in melted cheese since the 1970s. Fondue au fromage, which comes with the option of garnishes such as spicy merguez sausage or a shot of kirsch, a requirement if you’re from Switzerland. Regulars favor the cornichon supplement, which adds an alluring tang to the mini bubbling caldron of cheese. 48 W. 55th St., New York
Stable DC, Washington
Stable pays homage to the cuisine of Switzerland with such dishes as crispy potato rösti and landjäger air-cured, smoked sausage. The restaurant’s fondues are based on an unconventional blend that includes old and young Schlossberger, a buttery, raw cow’s milk cheese, accompanied by house-baked bread. Variations include a hit of Poire Williams eau du vie (fruit brandy) for a sharp, floral kick. 1324 H St. NE, Washington
Geja’s Cafe, Chicago
Two words are associated with Geja’s: “romantic” and “fondue.” The candle-lit dining room features a bubbling wine-spiked Gruyère version in classic enameled pots, with platters of bread cubes, grapes, apples, and, of course, long-handled forks to spear them. Also hyped is the dessert fondue made with Belgian chocolate and dipping options such as pound cake and Rice Krispies Treats. 340 W. Armitage Ave., Chicago
Palace Kitchen, Seattle
Palace’s goat cheese lavender fondue has been a bestseller since chef Tom Douglas opened his seminal Pac Northwest restaurant in 1996. He took advantage of one of the era’s hot ingredients, tangy goat cheese, and lightly scents it with the floral herb. Alongside are sweet and juicy D’Anjou pears and, for a slightly smoky bite, wood-grilled bread. 2030 5th Ave., Seattle
The Original Ninfa’s on Navigation, Houston
A mandatory order at Ninfa’s is fajitas: the Tex-Mex institution claims to have created the sizzling platters. Also compulsory is their queso flameado, a bubbling browned-on-top skillet of cheese strewn with bits of chorizo that generates long, melty strands when piled into warm flour tortillas. 2704 Navigation Blvd., Houston
Bar Amá, Los Angeles
One of the city’s top chefs, Josef Centeno, puts queso front and center on the menu at his Downtown L.A. Tex-Mex spot. His version, looking like golden cheese soup, arrives at the table in a white enamel bowl, along with a pile of tortilla chips for dipping. It’s topped with avocado and salsa, with chorizo as the option. Centeno also provides a vegan version made of cashew cheese with spiced tofu. 118 W. 4th St., Los Angeles
CANADA
Man Ray Bar à Vin, Toronto
Finding a lack of decent fondue around Toronto, popular local chef Brandon Olsen decided that had to change. He traveled to Switzerland to research authentic technique and invest in proper equipment—cast-iron burners, rosewood-handled skewers, and specialty pot sets, each costing about $300. With that level of seriousness, expect a buzz on an unstoppable mix of Gruyère, Emmenthal, and Vacherin when the wine bar opens in March. 227a Ossington Ave., 2nd Floor, Toronto
The Grizzly House, Banff, Alberta
In a cozy dining room with dark wood paneling, one of the Canadian ski town’s best-known spots offers a long list of meat fondues cooked in hot oil—exotic options include wild boar, alligator, rattlesnake, ostrich, venison, and frog legs. Here, an uberclassic cheese fondue counts as an appetizer. 207 Banff Ave., Banff, Alberta
MEXICO and SOUTH AMERICA
Hostal de los Quesos, Mexico City
This taco spot has cheese in its name and a section on its laminated menu dedicated to the stuff. One of the house specialties is el Hostal, a pan of more than half a pound of molten Chihuahua cheese (a traditional choice that’s soft, white, and a lot like Monterey Jack) blanketed with a layer of brick-red chorizo, ham, or mushrooms, plus flour tortillas. It makes a great stop going to or from the Frida Kahlo Museum. Av. Pillares 205, Colonia del Valle, Mexico City
La Cabrera Parrilla, Buenos Aires
This contemporary South American steakhouse offers a large array of barbecued meat, with provoleta as a rich prelude. The grilled, provolone-like cheese is served in a little cast-iron pan and cooked long enough to collapse like a fallen soufflé; it has a crunchy exterior and an oozy tangy interior perfumed by a chopped herb garnish. Cabrera 5099, Palermo, Buenos Aires
Minga, Buenos Aires
Unlike the city’s classic parillas (steakhouses), Minga has a modern, white-tablecloth feel and a concise list of grilled meats and fish. The provoleta here is Mediterranean-flavored, served on a handsome wooden board and piled high with black olives, capers, arugula leaves, basil, and sun-dried tomatoes, all of which cut through the richness of the cheese. Costa Rica 4528, Buenos Aires
EUROPE
Le Chalet Savoyard, Paris
This restaurant in the 11th arrondissement, near the Place de la Bastille, specializes in the cuisine of Savoy on the border with Switzerland. It offers a variety of fondues, including farmer-style, made with four cheeses and smoked bacon. The house specialty is fondue’s show-stopping cousin, a slow-melting raclette scraped from a wheel of Morbier, a semi-soft cow’s milk cheese with a distinctive dark line running through it. 58 rue de Charonne, 11ème, Paris
St. Moritz, London
This Soho establishment is London’s oldest Swiss restaurant, dating to 1974, which is pretty ancient in terms of the city’s fast-moving dining scene. Even Swiss customers are impressed by its authenticity and the choice of Swiss wines. The owner and chef, Armin Loelscher, says his bestseller is Fondue Motie-Motie, featuring imported Gruyère and Vacherin cheese and served with new potatoes and bread. 161 Wardour Street, London, W1F 8WJ
Poncelet Cheese Bar, Madrid
Fondue isn’t the first dish that comes to mind in Spain, but this Michelin-recommended establishment in Madrid stands out with its clean, light, and modern space. There’s a choice of about five fondues and raclettes, including an unusual Dutch version featuring Gouda with black truffles. If you don’t fancy that, there are as many as 150 cheese options. Calle de José Abascal, 61, Chamberí, Madrid
Swiss Chuchi, Zurich
Naturally, Switzerland is full of restaurants serving fine fondues, with Swiss Chuchi, at the Hotel Adler, as one of the most popular. With seating indoors and outdoors, you can choose from a wide range of local dishes, some of them rather unusual. The Lady Fondue features prosecco, pears, cherry liquor, and garlic. Rosengasse 10, Old Town, Zürich
Le Dézaley, Zurich
This traditional restaurant in the Old Town of Zurich specializes in the cuisine of the Vaud region. It’s cozy, with simple wooden furniture and friendly service. The signature fondue, made from a family recipe, is manufactured from ripe cheeses of the region and has been a draw for diners for a century. Römergasse 7/9, Old Town, Zürich
Lou Ressignon, Cogne, Italy
The Italians have their own variant on fondue called fonduta. (It’s made without wine or garlic and uses butter, milk, and egg yolks as thickeners, rather than cornstarch.) This inn in the Italian Alps was founded in 1966 by a ski instructor, Arturo Allera, and his sister, Elda. The menu celebrates the region’s gastronomy, including a fonduta featuring chestnuts gnocchi and Toma Italian cheese. Rue des Mines, 22, Cogne, Italy
AFRICA and ASIA
Fondue & Fondue, Kinshasa, Democratic Republic of Congo
The Congo is one of the last places you might expect to find decent fondue, but Fondue & Fondue has developed a following for the quality of its service and smart French-Swiss cuisine. There are about half a dozen options, including Fondue Vigneronne made with red wine. 707 Av. Colonel Lukusa, Gombe, Kinshasa, Democratic Republic of Congo
Warashibe Gyoza, Tokyo
Under the category of unconventional fondues is Warashibe, an izakaya where diners use dumplings as the dipping agent. Tabletop teppanyaki griddles are loaded down with shredded mozzarella and cheddar, then heated until it’s all an oozy puddle. The cheese is surrounded by an army of gyoza for dunking; varieties include unconventional, cheese-filled ones as well as classic pork. 1-chome-14 Kandasudacho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
Monnan Gamja, Tokyo
Fondue chicken is the specialty at Monnan in Koreatown in the Shinjuku area of Tokyo. Specifically, the dish is comprised of crispy Korean fried chicken served on a bed of melted cheeses and topped with a grated cheese garnish. It’s not unusual for customers to order the “waterfall of cheese” as an extra topping so the chicken is hidden underneath more of the stretchy, melted stuff. 2-chome-2-1 Hyakunincho Kaida 7th Bldg. 2F, Shinjuku, Tokyo
Wine Universe, Singapore
Red cloths decorate the tables at this sleek spot, which features an international wine list and a menu that leans on the cuisine of Switzerland. Cheeses are carefully sourced from master fromager Marc-Henri Horner. Among the five kinds of fondue is La Singaporienne, spiked with chopped fresh chile to add a blast of heat to the pot. The restaurant also offers “free-flowing” raclette, or a single serving for the more restrained. 9 Raffles Blvd., Millenia Walk, Singapore
Chesa, Hong Kong
Inside the grand hotel is the Swiss alpine-styled Chesa, where the walls are paneled in knotted pine and the specialty is, not surprisingly, cheese fondue. The standard is a bubbling moitié-moitié, a well-seasoned half Gruyère and half Vacherin blend. The over-the-top option is the Montagnarde, a mix of four cheeses with smoked bacon and boiled baby potatoes for dipping. 1/F, the Peninsula Hong Kong, Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsu, Hong Kong
Editor’s note: This restaurant is temporarily closed due to coronavirus concerns.
Shin Mi Kyeong Hongdae Dakgalbi, Seoul
This restaurant in the Hongdae district of Seoul specializes in dakgalbi, a spicy stir-fry chicken dish. The twist is that you have the option of wrapping the chicken in lettuce leaves and dipping it into a cheese fondue of varying levels of spiciness. 32 Hongik-ro 3-gil, Mapo-gu, Seogyo-dong, Seoul
Kagurazaka Saryo, Tokyo
This Japanese teahouse is famous for its desserts, including a matcha green-tea fondue. Uji matcha is mixed with white chocolate and served in a bowl into which you can dip sides of bananas and strawberries, plus waffle biscuits. It comes with a scoop of ice cream. (There are now several branches, including in Singapore.) 5-chome-9 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku City, Tokyo