Bloomberg Pursuits presents
The Perfect Suit
for Every Type of Guy
From the office to weddings, from slim-fit to beefy, your ultimate guide to the best off-the-rack men’s suits.
October 8, 2018
A suit is a suit, right?
Wrong.
Most men’s brands offer up different interpretations of the wardrobe staple, which means stores are filled with a wide array of choices for discerning shoppers. From the fit to the fabric to the way it’s constructed, the seemingly standardized suit can be spun off in a million different ways. And that’s before we even talk about cost.
The good news is there’s definitely a suit out there for you. The bad part is it may be an overwhelming endeavor to try to find it. To help you find your perfect match, we combed stores and online markets—and even polled real guys—to find exactly what’s different about each brand’s version. The result is a handy guide that will sort out suits by price point, fit, style, and occasion.
In the market for a new suit? You’ve come to the right place.
Five Things to Look for When Trying On Suits
The Shoulder If the shoulders don’t fit properly when you first try it on, try a different suit—it’s one of the things a tailor can’t easily fix for you.
To get the right fit, first, with your arms hanging straight down at your side, check that the seam where the jacket’s sleeve attaches into the shoulder lines up exactly with the outermost point of your shoulder. If this feels too snug, don’t worry—that means it fits, and won’t give you sad linebacker shoulders. In fact, it’s suggested that you should always try on one jacket size smaller than you think, as men generally overshoot.
Afterward, lift your arms up and move them around a bit to make sure the armhole is comfortable, but also know that the suit will loosen up (a little) over time. A good suit will break in and mimic the natural shape of your body.
Jacket Length An easy way to know if the length is right is to try on the jacket and turn your hands toward your body, then try to grab the hem—you should be able to easily wrap your top two knuckles around the bottom of the jacket. Another test: With your arms relaxed at your side, and your wrists hanging slack, clench your fists—your knuckles should be even with the hem or just a little bit shorter.
The Sleeve The end of the jacket sleeve should hit right where your thumb connects to your wrist, just enough space to allow a sliver of shirt to peek out.
Buttons Two-button jackets are the most common and most versatile type—the optimal choice for stocking a closet. (Just remember to always keep the top one buttoned and the bottom one undone; buttoning both is a big-time style fail.) Jackets with three buttons are slightly stodgier, and, conversely, one-button suits look very relaxed, hip even. Double-breasted suits are
having a resurgence as well. More formal and flashy, they tend to give the torso a boxier look, so we’d suggest bringing along a really honest friend if you’re
trying one out.
The Pants Hem There’s a bit of wiggle room here on the proper fit, depending on how much “break” you like, meaning how much fabric fold there is as your pants hit your shoe or the floor. Today, no break is the cleanest and most modern look, meaning pants should end right around the ankle bone, leaving no divot from extra fabric resting over the shoe. Flashier, more fashion-forward styles go even shorter for a bit of a crop.
Find your suit
- Your body type?
- Slim
- Average
- Beefy
- What’s your style?
- Traditional
- Flashy
- Price range?
- Under $1,000
- Over $1,000
- Occasion?
- Everyday
- Wedding
Giorgio Armani
average Body
traditional
over $1,000
everyday
Perhaps the most prolific designer when it comes to tailoring, Giorgio Armani is the man who remade the suit in the 1970s with a fluid drape and soft shoulder line. The Soho suit, shown here, has a younger, tightened-up silhouette, keeping in line with today’s preference for lean suiting shapes. Made in Italy from a cashmere-wool blend, it features a cropped jacket and tapered pants, so it gives you a nice torso-to-legs ratio (which hides “flaws” like a long torso vs. short legs) and an elegant V-shape silhouette.
Lined in red, the Italian-made suit jacket features notched lapels and two welt pockets.
The pants feature a conservative midrise, French pockets at the front, and buttoned welt pockets in the rear.
Banana Republic
beefy Body
flashy
under $1,000
wedding
Long known for its office-ready clothing, Banana Republic offers this two-piece suit, which is a great boardroom (or dance floor) flex. This is the brand’s Standard Fit, meaning it’s cut with broad shoulders and is fuller in the chest and waist. It’s not for a scrawny guy, but rather for someone carrying a little heft—be that gym regulars or dad bods—while the windowpane plaid pattern requires a bit of confidence.
Dual vents allow for ease of movement.
Internal buttoned pockets feature flaps to prevent your shirt from catching on the jacket.
One hundred percent Italian wool from Marzotto and an under-the-collar melton detail beg for a collar pop.
Berluti
beefy Body
traditional
over $1,000
everyday
Founded in 1895, Berluti has a long-standing reputation for its bespoke range of shoes, but expanded to suits in 2012. The jacket veers conservative with a more robust cut, plenty of room in the torso and sleeve for bigger guys, a softer shoulder, and a center back vent. The slim, tapered, and cropped pants have a cotton twill no-slip waistband to keep your shirt in place. The wool fabric comes in a very subtle Prince of Wales check with a technical finish, giving it a slight sheen.
The trouser legs are half-lined for superior breathability and comfort. An interior cotton-twill waistband ensures no-slip shirt tucks.
Buttons are made from buffalo horn and are stamped with the Berluti logo.
Bonobos
average Body
traditional
under $1,000
everyday
What started as a pants brand for guys with more junk in the trunk has now branched into a full menswear collection. Its premium suit is offered in two fits: standard and slim. The standard fit has a lower armhole, more room in the upper sleeve (for guys who do a lot of bicep curls) and in the trousers, allowing easier movement for guys with strong legs and glutes. The slim fit has a higher armhole (giving a longer line to the lower torso), a closer cut in the upper chest, and pants that taper from mid-thigh down.
The wool-cashmere blend is breathable and comfortable enough for year-round wear.
The jacket features a double-vent construction and horn buttons.
Pants have a tapered fit, in line with today’s style.
Brioni
beefy Body
flashy
over $1,000
everyday
Photographer: Janelle Jones/Bloomberg; Stylist: Melissa Lum; Tailor: Logan Neitzel; Model: Jay Schenck/FFT Models
Made by hand in Italy, Brioni suits are paragons of thoughtful design and master craftsmanship. Fully lined and with a notch lapel, this model has raised armholes and tapered sleeves, plus a high waistline to give the wearer a balanced proportion over a wide variety of builds. It’s an investment, yes, but so were all those years getting to the C-suite (or the White House).
A classic notch lapel lends the jacket versatility and a timeless feel.
The jacket is fully lined and features two interior pockets.
Dual vents keep the jacket’s traditional and modern look.
Brooks Brothers
beefy Body
traditional
under $1,000
wedding
When it comes to tailoring with an American twist, Brooks Brothers has 100 years of experience. While the brand has long been known for an old-school fit (read: voluminous), in recent years it’s come out with slimmer options, including the Regent, seen here. Cut closer to the body at the chest and shoulders, this model has a shorter, more pronounced taper to the waist. It’s more updated than the classic Brooks Brothers styles, but it’s by no means “skinny.”
Flat-front trousers give the pants a clean, elegant look.
The suit’s wool is woven in a way that enhances the textile’s natural stretch for the ideal amount of give.
Hand-sewn armholes help ensure shoulder mobility and comfort.
Brunello Cucinelli
average Body
flashy
over $1,000
everyday
Source: Brunello Cucinelli
Bruno Cucinelli is known for its dedication to the top tier of luxury and for sweating the details; its suiting is no exception. Slightly pronounced shoulders offset the close-fitting jacket (for that nice trim, tailored V-shape) and give way to straight-leg trousers, although overall the cut is generous. The cuffs feature functional buttonholes, the lining is a breathable, lightweight, and slightly silky cupro, and the sharkskin fabric lends a textured, mottled appearance.
The worsted, textured appearance of the fabric lends a “dynamic” look.
Slightly pronounced shoulders coupled with a close-fitting body give it a confident, bold energy.
The trousers are straight-cut for a more traditional appearance.
Burberry
slim Body
traditional
over $1,000
wedding
Burberry’s core suiting keeps in line with hand-crafted Savile Row tradition. This model has a slim-to-skinny silhouette: tight in the body, high armholes, lean sleeves, and slim, tapered pants. Think of the figure actor Eddie Redmayne cuts when he dons a suit—he’s a big Burberry fan.
Side-adjusting fixtures at the hips allow for the perfect trouser fit.
A wool-viscose underlining at the lapel adds a subtle bit of flair.
Made in Italy out of an English wool fabric that features a slight pinstripe.
Calvin Klein
average Body
traditional
under $1,000
everyday
Cut to be fuller in the shoulders and torso with high armholes and trim sleeves, this CK suit’s versatile fit will work on a variety of body types. The tapered pants add to the modern look, as does the fully lined notch-lapel jacket, offered in an all-purpose middle blue.
The broader cut in the shoulders is perfect for guys who work out.
Balancing the shoulder are higher armholes and trim sleeves, ensuring a modern fit without bagginess.
Pants taper slightly to give the legs a longer, leaner appearance.
Combatant Gentlemen
average Body
traditional
under $1,000
everyday
Source: Combatant Gentlemen
The internet has disrupted plenty of industries, and men’s fashion is no holdout. This digital-first brand, founded in 2012, aims to bring style-conscious and wallet-friendly suits to the masses. This middle-of-the-road slim fit is a bridge between body-hugging skinny fits and more robust, traditional fits. It’s cut with a broader chest, for those guys doing their bench presses, but that’s countered with a tapered torso that narrows at the waist (creating a nice silhouette).
Dior
slim Body
flashy
over $1,000
wedding
As seen on the fall runways, this suit has a bit of a high-fashion edge with its nipped-in jacket (creating a nice waistline), constructed shoulder, and long sleeves with the Christian Dior label detail. This model also has a bit more personality, thanks to its slightly slouchy fit, and is best for style seekers who can pull off something outside the box.
DKNY
beefy Body
flashy
under $1,000
everyday
DKNY is known for clothing with a distinctly urban sensibility, and its Crosstown suit is no different. It has a tapered sleeve, raised armhole (which gives you a longer look from armpit to waist and makes unattractive pulling across the chest less likely to occur), and shorter jacket length (which essentially makes your top and bottom halves look balanced and proportional). Still, there’s no aggressive city vibes here: The tailoring is soft, with minimal shoulder padding, while a wider lapel brings a little swagger. The pants taper through the thigh, and the wool has a soft finish to provide it with a rugged look but a lightweight feel.
Express
slim Body
flashy
under $1,000
everyday
This is a great starter suit for a guy looking for a young, trendy fit—a slim shoulder- and body-hugging cut and tapered pants. It’s made from a wool-polyester blend (the polyester bit is why Express can offer you such a great price) with a little spandex woven in to keep you moving easy.
This stretch fabric blend means you can move freely and know that your suit will keep its shape over time.
Gucci
average Body
flashy
over $1,000
wedding
Gucci Creative Director Alessandro Michele has pushed a flowery, over-the-top maximalism in the past few years—and it’s been a huge success. However, a
purple, brocade rhinestone-encrusted jacket isn’t for everyone. Instead, try the Monaco suit, with a slim-to-average fit in the body and soft, rounded shoulders. Although difficult to see here, the vintage-inspired fabric is a rich blue with fine, red dots.
Soft and rounded shoulders lend a more romantic, casual look.
Half-canvas construction and a silk lining yield a feather-light, breathable, and elegant jacket.
The rich navy blue wool features a red pin dot design for a slightly showy vibe.
Hugo Boss
beefy Body
traditional
under $1,000
everyday
Photographer: Janelle Jones/Bloomberg; Stylist: Melissa Lum; Tailor: Logan Neitzel; Model: Jarvis Tomdio/FFT Models
Known for its exacting approach to modern tailoring, with strict lines and precise construction, Hugo Boss excels at trim-cut, elegant suits. This pick sports a fully lined jacket with side vents, three exterior pockets, and another inside for good measure. Made from 100 percent virgin wool, it’s breathable and has a bit of natural stretch, making it comfortable and adaptable in a variety of situations. Hugo Boss also has the widest range of sizes available on this list, so you should be able to find something that can work, no matter your body type.
Overlapping buttons at the cuff and wide, notched lapels give this suit a timeless, versatile appeal.
Straight-leg pants, French side pockets, and back welt pockets make this an ideal office suit.
A “regular fit” is Hugo’s Goldilocks fit—neither too skinny nor too roomy.
J.Crew
average Body
traditional
under $1,000
wedding
Ten years ago, J.Crew introduced its Ludlow suit, which was a huge hit. Made from European fabrics and with expert quality in mind, it became the everyman’s go-to. This model is made with an Italian wool that has a hint of stretch, comes in a trim but not skinny fit, and has a slightly wider 3-inch lapel, which is more traditional and less concerned with of-the-moment trends.
Features a 3-inch notch lapel and pick stitching at the collar, lapel, and pockets.
Cut in a slim, modern silhouette from stretch wool sourced from Italy’s famed Lanificio Campore mill.
The jacket features a double vent and is lined in high-quality Bemberg materials (often called “the king of linings”).
Jos. A Bank
beefy Body
traditional
under $1,000
everyday
As part of its Executive Collection, this suit is a longtime best-seller for the brand, which has been a purveyor of men’s affordable corner-office tailoring since 1905. The classic fit has a broader shoulder, a more generous cut in the body, and double-pleated trousers. On the spectrum of fits, it’s definitely on the bigger side, for guys who need some extra room.
Paul Smith
beefy Body
flashy
over $1,000
wedding
Paul Smith is famous for vibrant colors and riotous prints, but when it comes to tailoring, he reins it in, balancing a discerning eye with that mischievous streak. This suit boasts a tailored waist and hip (giving you a nice, shapely silhouette) and is made from high-twist worsted wool yarn, which makes it crease-resistant. It makes a great go-to for the traveler who needs to unpack and impress while on the road.
Half-canvas construction and 100 percent worsted wool make for cloth that’s crease-resistant.
Small details such as pocket flap linings and under-collar melton make this suit feel special.
The slim-fit trousers feature a rubber grip at the waistband to keep your shirt in place.
Polo Ralph Lauren
average Body
flashy
under $1,000
wedding
From the more casual, younger Polo line, this suit is slim-cut, not too skinny but definitely not your dad’s. The shoulders are natural, the sleeves tapered (bulging biceps may prove difficult), and the half-canvassed jacket has a shorter, trendy shape. The pants, too, are slim and slightly high-waisted—best worn on your natural waist, not the hips. A formal notch lapel and single back vent (which always looks more old-fashioned) add a note of surprise to such a young-skewing suit.
Contrasting under-collar fabrics, rolled lapels, and hand-sewn shoulders add a luxurious feel to the jacket.
Stacked (i.e., overlapping) buttons finish the jacket sleeve.
Slim, flat-front trousers make for a slim, elegant silhouette.
Prada
slim Body
traditional
over $1,000
everyday
Prada’s bold runway pieces are only part of the Italian brand’s mystique. It also, naturally, offers a more commercial collection. This fully lined suit jacket is more in line with Italian tradition, with a constructed shoulder (i.e., there’s a stronger angle where the sleeve and shoulder meet), room in the sleeve, and a medium fit in the torso for versatility. The pants have a slight taper for a modern—although not overly skinny or trendy—fit.
A wool-mohair blend allows for a richer color with just a touch of sheen.
Front slant pockets broadcast a sleek, architectural shape and superior fit to the trousers.
The rich, dark blue makes this a versatile pick, whatever the occasion.
Suitsupply
average Body
flashy
under $1,000
everyday
True to name, Amsterdam-based Suitsupply focuses on men’s tailoring, with many suits starting at a mere $500. The Havana suit, seen here, is one of the brand’s most popular styles. It’s cut close to the body with a slightly cropped jacket and natural shoulders (no padding). It’s half-canvassed, meaning the internal “canvas” is only on the upper half and sleeves, giving it a lightweight tailored look with a T-shirt feel. Checked wool from the Vitale Barberis Canonico mill in Italy gives it some European swagger.
The bold blue check pattern is eye-catching without being too flashy.
Casual-cool patch pockets and sharp notch lapel marry the formal and casual, fit for a wide range of situations.
Theory
slim Body
traditional
under $1,000
everyday
Photographer: Janelle Jones/Bloomberg; Stylist: Melissa Lum; Tailor: Logan Neitzel; Model: Jarvis Tomdio/FFT Models
Known for its reserved, precise take on men’s office wear, Theory has long been a wardrobe staple for working men. The Chambers suit is the in-house favorite, a great middle-of-the-road option for guys who are looking for something with a lean, contemporary fit. That it’s made from wool with just a hint of stretch makes it the perfect piece to move with you throughout the day, no matter how much running around you do. You’d be hard-pressed to find a better midrange suit that’s cut well and close to the body like this, which is why it’s a good default.
Super 120s stretch wool with a wrinkle-resistant finish from one of Italy’s finest mills makes this an ideal travel suit.
The fully lined jacket features a four-button cuff, two interior pockets, and two exterior besom pockets.
Straight-leg pants are unarguably inoffensive.
Thom Browne
slim Body
flashy
over $1,000
everyday
Designer Thom Browne exploded onto the menswear scene in the early aughts and is the reason, along with Raf Simons and Hedi Slimane (then at Dior Homme), why suits got so darn skinny. Browne’s whole brand is predicated on taking the classic suit and tweaking it into a shrunken shape. The super-cropped jacket and pants, high armhole, and very, very trim torso fit aren’t for everyone, but if you have money to burn and want to add a bit of vanguard appeal to a classic garment, this is for you.
The grosgrain loop tab at the back of the collar is a distinctive trademark, while an adjustable backstrap on the pants helps make a perfect-fitting pair of trousers.
Tom Ford
average Body
traditional
over $1,000
wedding
Photographer: Janelle Jones/Bloomberg; Stylist: Melissa Lum; Tailor: Logan Neitzel; Model: Jay Schenck/FFT Models
While Tom Ford is known for swagger and sex appeal, his O’Connor is a more sedate classic. It’s the slimmest fit, but still cut with room in the body and with a strong shoulder. The notch lapel on this model, which is new, has been given a modern, narrow cut. The pants are slim-fit and tapered.
The small pocket above the traditional flap pocket nods to a time when men needed extra space to stash their daily train ticket.
The adjusting side straps ensure these trousers fit perfectly every time you wear them—even after a big meal.
Crafted in Italy out of lightweight canvas wool, this suit is one of the designer’s most enduring pieces.
Topman
slim Body
flashy
under $1,000
wedding
The British high street brand has long been fusing a rock ’n’ roll aesthetic with traditional English tailoring, and this skinny-fit suit is no different. The sharp, crisp, and body-hugging shape is certainly for very lean guys; if you do a lot of squats and lunges in your workout routine, you may want to look elsewhere—your calves won’t even fit in the leg holes. Offered in a variety of jewel tones, like this deep burgundy, it’s a terrific way to branch out from the standard navy-, charcoal-, and black-suited herd.
The dual-vented jacket gives a little extra mobility in the shoulders and body, ensuring the suit is slim but not restricting.
A slightly cropped jacket and the rich burgundy color give this suit a youthful feel.
Zara
slim Body
traditional
under $1,000
wedding
Mass-market retailer Zara is known for re-creating runway trends in record time, but don’t skip its core suiting collection. While much of its clothing is cut super-skinny, this suit is slightly roomier in the torso. The slim-cut, cropped pants veer toward casual (read: trendy), as does the one-button jacket. However, that means a variety of guys can make it work for them.
Soft peak lapels and strong shoulders lend a powerful, authoritative look that doesn’t seem old-fashioned.
The slim-fit pants are cropped and have a hidden zipper and button enclosure, complementing the streamlined look of the jacket.
Ermenegildo Zegna
beefy Body
traditional
over $1,000
wedding
Source: Ermenegildo Zegna
Zegna has a towering reputation in the men’s tailoring world, but it’s not afraid to evolve with the times. The Milano is its updated fit, but compared with others on the list, this suit is slightly roomier, a throwback to the more relaxed, draped looks seen in classic Italian films, which is increasingly on-trend. The jacket is a regular fit, somewhere between slim and classic, and the midrise pants have a slight taper, which makes it perfect for bodies on the average to larger side. Superfine merino wool provides a smooth appearance and maximum comfort.
The notch lapel features a reinforced, working buttonhole.
The lined jacket has a tailored fit and comes with unfinished sleeves so you can have them custom-tailored at any Zegna boutique.
Midrise pants with regular-cut legs fit a variety of body types.