"I think everyone in New York thinks that the best bagels are near their house," explained Trillin, 79, as his fans gathered around him at Father Demo Square in the West Village. It's 11 a.m. on Sunday, and to energize the group he's brought in flat everything bagels from his own local joint, Hudson Bagels. They are buttered and griddled. Hudson Bagels was opened by German Irish people, not Jews, he explains, and now it's owned by the people who run the Italian restaurant next door to it. (They are Middle Eastern.) "Flat bagels are for people who like the outside more than the inside," Trillin notes. The bagel is salty, and chewy enough to make your jaw hurt. It is perfect.