Two words currently dominate the food world: “plant” and “based.” The global market for plant-based foods, valued at $29.4 billion in 2020, is expected to top $162 billion by 2030. Last year, one-third of Americans reported eating less meat than they had a few years ago. In New York, the new mayor Eric Adams is pushing vegan menus for school lunches and beyond.
But look around the Big Apple these days, and the most crowded dining rooms are the ones that specialize in beef. Maybe it’s because meat feels like a forbidden luxury in an increasingly green world. Or that, after a couple of tough years, a fat prime rib oozing with juices feels like a much-deserved splurge. It’s hard to find an empty seat at Hawksmoor, the handsome British transplant at which the bone-in rib chop tends to get crossed off the chalk board menus almost as soon as it’s written.