On Sept. 17, Sotheby’s premieres the first exhibition exclusively featuring Black jewelry designers, followed by a sale that runs in person and online until Oct. 10. The sale will be a watershed—and many would say long-overdue—moment for the industry, elevating 21 Black jewelry designers to a global stage for the first time. “Brilliant & Black: A Jewelry Renaissance” features 63 works, including both designers’ signature pieces and custom creations for the exhibition, that showcase their different styles and techniques.
The exhibition is the brainchild of Black jewelry author, editor, and stylist Melanie Grant, who was galvanized by the Black Lives Matter movement to find a way to make a difference in the jewelry world. Grant has worked at The Economist and its sister publication 1843 for 15 years and authored the coffee-table book Coveted: Art and Innovation in High Jewelry (2020).