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How Brooklyn Changed the Neighborhood Restaurant

Giving a newly sophisticated dining class what it’s asking for—and more.

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On a recent Tuesday evening, Mettā, in Brooklyn’s Fort Greene neighborhood, was just starting to come to life. It was 7 p.m.

“We’ve observed that the room usually fills up around 7:30,” says Peter Dowling, a partner in the restaurant. Mettā’s location—a hike from the Q train or a 25-minute car ride from downtown Manhattan—means “you’re waiting for people to get out of work and commute back,” he says.